Can't Touch This

Our adventure continues!! We've spent the last couple of days in Jodhpur and surrounds. Jodhpur has cast us back in urban India once again, where the rule prevails: Touch Nothing But Yourself. It is quite dirty here (filth factor directly correlates with city size), but again, we are rewarded with highlights not to be missed. For one, whole sections of the Old City are painted in blue, which used to denote the social caste of religious leaders several hundred years ago (now it's more of a fashion statement, and a way to keep cool in summer). There is a fabulous fort atop a hill at the centre of the old city, (pictured - and yes here is the debut of the Pants! Niiice. Turns out this particular style originated in Jodhpur, so I'm actually very haute couture around here.) You may recall this Jodhpur Fort being featured in the news in September, when 246 people died as part of the fort collapsed (there was fear of a bomb, causing a stampede of mostly Indian teenagers attending a religious festival, clambering to get out). A palm reader takes residence in the Fort, and Deb chose to take him up on his services. He proceeded to sit us down and hork up the biggest, grossest loogie you've ever seen from waaay back in his throat, into a glass jar (just to make sure we could see it?!?!) and then go on to tell Deb what lays in her future. He concluded with: "You very fertile children into 40s and 50s this is all I read from your palm I have nothing more to say to you GOODBYE". Hmm. Interesting character!

We continue to enjoy great food, and are getting progressively experimental... for example, we've finally braved the oranges available for purchase at roadside foodstalls. This does involve an elaborate procedure of: wash oranges with antibacterial soap>> isogel (disinfect) hands >> peel orange >> isogel again >> consume. Can't Touch This!!

We had a funny episode following our Fort adventures last night. We realized as we were walking out of the fort that we ran ourselves down to only 150 Rupees with no ATM in sight (equivalent to $3.75 CDN!). Who does that??? What a couple of retards. Having said that, those last Rupees were enough to purchase 2 water bottles, 3 chocolate bars, and a rickshaw ride back to our hotel (with an ATM stop along the way!). Can't Touch Those Prices!!

Today, we hired a jeep and a driver, who took us out to explore rural life in the area. This was fanTAStic, as the guide lives in one of the villages himself (therefore very knowledgeable about local customs, trades etc), and he spoke great English. We had the opportunity to see a family run pottery operation and a weaving cooperative; visited a family who not only let us in to their home, but dressed me up in full traditional regalia; a UNICEF supported centre for children of poor families to eat (pictured above); and saw some wildlife (antelope, gazelles) along the way!

Equestrian and Epicurean Experiences!!

We've had 3 stellar days in Udaipur. As noted, we finally found ourselves in a town that was navigable on foot, and with some element of (shock!) pleasure. I finally had the chance to sit down with some locals and hear about their lives. I had a great convo with a tailor in town, who I approached to fix my beloved MC Hammer pants (imagine, I paid 5$ for them and already they are showing some signs of disrepair!! I will model these on blog soon, now that they are repaired and fit for display. ). The tailor's grandfather had been a guard for the Maharaja living in the City Palace in the 1930s... cool! He had some great stories to tell, which made Udaipur all the more colorful in my mind, and my heart. His passable english allowed me to get answered many of my questions about social structure and caste system, Hinduism, the educational system, and what is UP with all the horoscope talk?? Fabulous. I also had opportunity to chat with a German woman who married Indian 7 years ago, and has been living here ever since - she provides a unique perspective on Indian culture, to be sure! She is actually in the process of completing a PhD thesis on Indo-European marriages, making it an even more enrapturing discussion.

One of the highlights of Udaipur was a horseback riding adventure through the countryside, which we took this morning. I've only ever ridden 4-5 times in my life, but once I got over myself ( who's in charge anyway, me or the horse??) and built some confidence, I was off cantering as much as the guide would let us! GREAT fun... cantering feels like flying. What an adrenaline rush!! I have the potential to become addicted. Of the backdrop and the horse ride itself, I'm not sure which is the icing and which is the cake... This ride gave us unique opportunity to absorb the countryside and its people. The area displays breathtaking topography and rural life; farms intermixed with rolling hills and small mountains in the background; schools, 'rich families' with houses built of cow shit with bricks, vs 'poor families' with houses built only of cow shit; all people happy and smiling, calling "Namaste!" (hello!) and shouting out any (few) english words they knew with pride. There was a lovely lake filled with lotus flowers, which the locals were harvesting in half sunk boats. Livestock abounded, particularly goats... minus one, which the stable dog ate en route, following which he was promptly sent home with tail between his legs.

This evening's highlight was a super cooking course, attended by ourselves, an Italian girl, and a lovely Danish couple! (We've met a number of Danes on this trip, as I always tend to do... this travel bug must be in my blood.) We learned how to make REAL masala chai, naan bread, and a number of other great veggie dishes, mmmm.... sated, educated, and very, very happy!

If there is a heaven in India... Udaipur is it!!

We arrived in Udaipur on a night train from Rathambore this morning. The train was uneventful... it arrived an hour late, meaning we were left in the train station at midnight to fend for ourselves...(A note on comments received on my clothing choices from some of my 'viewers': when it is midnight and you are the only pale faced women amongst a platform of men, with 20 sets of eyes staring you down intently, it pays to look fugly!) We had to share our sleeper berth with two morbidly obese Indian men, but thankfully they didn't snore or smell, and they left us very quietly sometime in the wee hours of the night.
Udaipur has turned out to be an absolute dream. A small city of only 350,000, it is much less overbearing, and the people/touts are much less aggressive in selling their wares. There are no buses, fewer cars, and smaller streets, meaning that risk of bodily injury on the street is stepped down a bit. The best part is that the city is seated on a beautiful lake with 2 old Maharaja palaces perched on islands in the middle, and our hotel has a rooftop restaurant from which to enjoy it! We savored a tremendous sunset over the mountains, and watched the sky turn pink, and the palaces light up like a mirage. Great shopping too - I have now expanded my Indian clothing armamentarium to a wicked pair of MC Hammer dance pants (pictures pending, yes do hold your breath, they are the bomb) and a not so fugly pair of black pants that will not show the India on them for quite some time!! ahahaaaa

Sunset views from the roof top patio of our hotel

Wildlife... some invited... some not!

Sorry for the absentee blogger... internet access was sketchy in Rathambore Park (RP) (not that I'm complaining...we were in the middle of rural 3rd world after all!). RP was amazing.. and YEAH!! We saw a tiger!! Let's just get that out of the way. He wasn't as up close and personal as we would have liked, but we can't complain - we met a guy who has taken 36 safaris and still hasn't seen one!! Also on the checklist were: crocodiles, peacocks, parrots, langoor monkeys (only found on the Indian subcontinent), mongoose, wild boars, 300kg deer... very, very cool, and all in a Laura Croft Tomb Raider environment, created by a fantastic fort ruin from the 900s.
We decided to 'rough it' in tents at RP... tents complete with cement floor, shower, and choice of heat or a/c. Luxus as this may seem, the outdoor phenomenon was made very real by the company that we had in the tent with us!! On the first morning, picture this: I wake up, yawn and roll over languishingly, rested and relaxed.. To find deb crouched in the corner of our safari tent, flashlight in hand like a weapon. She says "good morning, I don't mean to alarm you BUT..." a mouse had skittered across right above our heads INside our tent 2h prior, and deb had been on vigil ever since!Ick. This is one reason why 30,000 people die of rabies in India every year.
Now, a word on the next bit of unwanted 'companionship': we went on a tour through this fantastic fort noted above, which is inhabited by a few people still (who the government are sadly trying to toss out), but also hundreds of these langoor monkeys (medium size, about 40lb I'd say, see pix). They are totally used to humans so they let you get pretty close, and one even may be tricked into thinking they are cute! As we explored the fort in the company of a wonderful family from Delhi, one of these Scheisters comes galloping along, and reaches out and takes a swipe at the unsuspecting little 8 year old girl in the group! Thankfully, it didn't break skin. We get over this mini attack, and not 5 mins later, her 15 year old brother has THREE of these little ****ers hanging off his arm, thinking he's got food!! No big deal for him though- he's been bitten by rhesus monkeys twice before, at home in Delhi.!! And THEN, as we are walking away and think we are safe, another one comes charging down the path full tilt at us. Being the responsible adult I am, I scream and reflexively jump between the 8 and 15 year old for cover!! I was so embarrassed... The kids were both taking this far more in stride than me. This is another shining source of rabies deaths in India.
The third unwelcome visitor came the following night in our tent (this one is not known to carry the big R, I don't think...am I obsessed?). As we were preparing for bed, Deb reaches up and grabs her sweater off the hanger, followed by the loudest ear piercing scream I've ever heard her make (I remind you we've been hanging out for 30 years)... next thing I know Deb is hiding behind me, pacing side to side in a very PostTraumaticStressDisorder kind of way, and there is a lizard on our bed wearing Deb's sweater! The cycle then went as follows: lizard shifts, deb screams, I scream, we wait for someone to come to our rescue, no one comes. Ultimately I had the wherewithall to take a picture of the event (it's not every day a reptile tries your clothes on for size!), upon which it scurried away and spent the night up in the corner.
Aaah.. India.

Ranthambhore National Park Pictures

Post to follow.

In the Raw

Had a super day today... after a week of going hard, it took us until about 1300h to tear ourselves away from our poolside camp and muster the gumption to re-enter India for another day of adventure.

We continue to be amazed by how completely Raw this country is. We hired a taxi to take us to the City Palace, which is located inside of the "Old City" of Jaipur, which is completely surrounded by pink fort-like walls. The palace itself was beautiful, and as I was admiring the delicate architecture, a bird shat on my head (mom, I feel you!). Our second stop on today's journey was a super interesting astronomy/astrology centre from ancient times, replete with all manner of Alice-In-Wonderland type sundials and other contraptions, which were used to keep track of both time and horoscopes. They put a lot of emphasis on horoscopes here - the 'Classifieds' in the paper here are called 'Matrimonials', and it's not uncommon for them to state 'Horoscope match a MUST!

As we were trying to negotiate the narrow exit of the astrology centre (being careful not to be run over by rickshaw, taxi, tourist bus or motorbike), traffic through the passage came to a screeching halt as 6-7 wild urban cows decided to take up residence in the passage, with a huge herd of monkeys looking on from an adjacent rooftop. As Deb and I were planning our strategy, something motivated the monkeys to suddenly come flying off the rooftop and nearly into our laps! Don't look now, there's a monkey on your back!!... close call. We explored the Old City a while longer, then hopped a rickshaw home. Highlight of the trip home was a random camel in line with the rest of us in rush hour traffic, which caused us to collapse into inconsolable giggles... what else can you do but laugh? In truth, it is quite awful for that animal (or us animals, for that matter) to be breathing in the toxic fumes of Indian traffic.

Tomorrow we are off to our Tiger Safari in Rathambore National Park... stay tuned!!

Ode to Oasis and Deb

After a deep breath and yet another harrowing train experience, we arrive to our current Oasis (Jas Villas) in Jaipur. The Villas are absolutely lovely - not only is it a clean, fresh, tranquil reprieve from the disaster outside otherwise known as India, but it comes replete with a truly lovely garden, and a pool long enough to do laps in - YEAH!! I want to take a moment to give the credit, and many many thanks, to Deb for doing soooo much work to book our itinerary, hotels and trains. If it wasn't for her, we would be sandwiched between cows and smelly men in the 3rd class train compartments, and we would never have found gem hotels like this one, which aren't even in the Bible (aka Lonely Planet India!)! Deb - you ROCK!!!
In exchange for these services, I willingly accept the burden of serving as Confrontational Exchange Manager for the team, dealing with interpersonal battles/warfare as the need may arise. That's pretty frequent around here... train stations being the worst so far. We were uncermoniously dumped at the train station last night and left to fend for ourselves to find our train... this would seem a small feat, but was unfortunately complicated by 1) power outage on the screen that would normally list the trains; 2) train listings were in Hindi anyway; 3) no mention of track number aside said power-outed listing (it flicked on briefly); 4) long lines of burly pushy men who did not see why I should deserve a place in line (until my elbows came out and my voice rose to match theirs, HA.). Ultimately we figured it out, and got here in one piece!
Today we chilled out poolside, and ventured 'out there' to check out the markets in Jaipur. I was excited to find all sorts of little bags of candies sold by street vendors, which resembled a lovely little chewy mix that we got on the plane from Heathrow to Delhi. I bought 10 packs in different flavors, and when we came back to the hotel, I opened one sac and poured it into my mouth... BLECH... to find out (the hard way) that I was the proud owner of 10 bags of chewing tabacco!! Whups... no wonder the vendor was giving me such weird looks. Truth is, I just want to be able to spit back when spat upon by the locals (there is a lot of horking going on, and often their aim is somewhat misguided).